The loc journey is one of the most beautiful transformations in natural hair — but it’s also one of patience, care, and understanding. Every set of locs is unique, but each one goes through the same three phases of development: baby, teenage, and adult.
If you’ve ever wondered how long it takes for your hair to loc, Byrdie recently featured me, Chimere Faulk — loctician and founder of Dr Locs — in their article, “How Long Does It Take Hair to Loc?” where I explained that the process can take anywhere from 10 months to two years depending on texture, care, and maintenance.
But beyond timing, what truly defines your journey are the three distinct phases your hair moves through as it matures.
1. Baby Locs (Starter Phase)
This is where it all begins — your hair is freshly sectioned, twisted, coiled, or braided into starter locs. They’re delicate, soft, and prone to unraveling, just like a newborn learning to stand.
During this stage:
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Avoid over-styling or constant manipulation.
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Sleep with a satin bonnet or pillowcase to protect your locs.
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Keep your scalp clean and balanced.
Recommended products:
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🧴 Dr Locs Pre-Cleanse – removes buildup and prepares the scalp before washing.
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🫧 Dr Locs Yasin Shampoo – a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser that won’t disturb the locing process.
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💧 Dr Locs Jinan Moisture Mix – provides lightweight hydration without residue.
Pro tip: Frizz is your friend! It’s a natural and necessary part of the locing process that helps your hair mesh and mature.
2. Teenage Locs (Budding Phase)
Welcome to the “awkward” phase — your locs begin to swell, frizz, and develop their shape, but they might not always behave the way you want them to. This is the time when patience becomes your best friend.
During this phase:
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Your locs will begin to bud (the center starts to feel dense).
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Some locs may appear different lengths — that’s completely normal.
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Avoid constant retwisting; too much tension can thin your locs.
Recommended products:
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💦 Dr Locs Island Breeze Moisture Mix – balances hydration and strength for swelling locs.
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🌿 Dr Locs Imani Locking Spray – provides light hold for retwists without buildup.
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🪷 Dr Locs Yaya Oil – seals in moisture and gives shine while nourishing the scalp.
Pro tip: Think of teenage locs as finding their identity — your job is to guide them, not control them.
3. Adult Locs (Mature Phase)
By now, your locs have thickened, tightened, and taken on their permanent form. They’re stronger, more uniform, and easier to maintain.
During this phase:
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Continue your cleansing and moisture routine consistently.
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Retwist only as needed — typically every 4–6 weeks.
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Deep clean every few months to remove buildup and refresh your locs.
Recommended products:
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🧖🏾♀️ Dr Locs Amla Extract Conditioner – hydrates and strengthens mature locs.
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💫 Dr Locs Yaya Oil – a staple for sealing moisture and maintaining healthy shine.
Pro tip: At this stage, focus on maintenance and scalp health. Mature locs thrive on consistency, hydration, and clean ingredients.
The Patience and Pride Behind the Process
As I mentioned in Byrdie, “It’s not scientifically possible to speed up the loc’ing process.” True locs are built on time, care, and intention — not quick fixes. Sticky, “fast-locking” products often create buildup that can harm your locs long term.
Your locs are a reflection of you — your growth, patience, and individuality. Don’t compare your journey to anyone else’s. Every coil and curl tells your story.
So wherever you are — baby, teenage, or adult phase — nurture your locs with love, trust the process, and let them evolve naturally.
Start Your Healthy Loc Journey with Dr Locs
Our entire system is designed to support every phase of your loc journey — from the first twist to your mature crown. Explore the full Dr Locs collection for plant-based, buildup-free care your locs will love.
