"How long until my locs lock?" — it's one of the questions I get asked the most, and honestly, I get why. When you don't understand the stages your hair is going through, the loc journey can feel confusing, and sometimes downright frustrating. A lot of people call one of these stages "the ugly phase," and I want to change that. Once you understand what's actually happening to your hair at each stage, you stop comparing yourself to everyone else and you start seeing the process for what it really is — beautiful.

Let's break it down.

A Quick Note Before We Start

There is no exact timeframe for any of these stages. Your hair texture plays a huge role. If you have a finer texture, each stage can take a little longer. If your hair is more coarse or kinky, your locs may form faster. That's not good or bad — it's just science. So when you're scrolling and comparing your locs to someone else's, remember you're not seeing their texture, their journey, or how many stages they've already gone through to get there.

I locked my own hair back in 1997 as a teenager, and I did not know what I was doing. There was no Google, no loctician guiding me, nothing. I went months without washing my hair because I was scared it would come undone. Now, over 20 years into doing this professionally, I know so much more — and that's exactly why I want to walk you through it, so you don't have to guess the way I did.

Stage 1: The Baby Stage

If you started your locs with comb coils, this is where your journey begins. I call it the baby stage because, just like a baby, your hair is fresh, new, and doesn't quite know what it's doing yet.

How you know you're here: Your hair comes undone when it's washed. That's your sign. If you wash your coils in the first few weeks or months and they unravel, you are still in the baby stage — and that is completely normal.

What should be happening during this stage:

• You should be coming in every 4 to 6 weeks to get your hair washed and retwisted.
• Your loctician should be using fingertips only — never a comb — to wash and re-form the coils without disturbing the locking process.
• I do not recommend using a comb once your locs are started. A comb will disturb the locking process. Your hair will still lock eventually, but it will take longer.
• I'm big on clean hair. I don't recommend waiting months and months to wash, the way I had to back in the day. Coming in regularly and washing with your fingertips is the way to go.

This stage can last anywhere from one to three months. It's a process, and if you look at it the right way, it's a beautiful one.

Stage 2: The Teenage Stage

You'll know you've moved into the teenage stage when your hair no longer comes undone when it's washed. It's spongy. You can see the locking solidifying. A lot of people think this means their hair is "done" — but technically, it's not there yet.

Think about a teenager. They've gotten taller, they've developed, they look more grown — but they're still not an adult. Your locs are the same way in this stage. This is also usually when your hair is at its most frizzy, and it can be deceiving. You may feel like "this is what my locs look like now" and get discouraged, but that frizz is temporary.

Here's what's actually happening: that frizz is shed hair collecting and working its way into your coils. Think about box braids — when you keep them in for about two to three months, you notice more shedding hair when you take them out. It's the same thing happening inside your locs during this stage, which is why they can look messy or puffed out in shape.

What should be happening during this stage:

• Continue washing normally, making sure both your roots and the ends of your locs get washed.
• Twist as usual, but also double clip — meaning you're not just twisting at the root, you're clipping the tip of the loc too. This guides the entire loc, root to tip, to dry and form in the same direction. If you only twist the root and skip the tip, the rest of the loc doesn't get that same guidance, and it can form disproportionately.

This stage typically runs another three to sometimes six months.

Stage 3: The Adult Phase

This is when your locs are firm and no longer frizzy the way they were in the teenage stage. That firmness is your golden key — it's how you know you've reached this phase.

All in, most people reach the adult phase around the one-year mark. I've had clients get there in as little as eight months. Others take longer. Every single person is different, and that's because of the same factors we talked about — texture, care routine, how the hair was started. Please don't compare your timeline to anyone else's.

And here's the truth: your locs don't stop evolving once you hit the adult phase. They keep getting more form-fitting, more firm. It's a continuous process — just like life.

If You're in the Thick of It Right Now

Breathe. If you're in the frizzy, unpredictable, "is this even working" stage — you're doing fine. This is the journey, and every stage is doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

A few things that will make the biggest difference:

• Work with a professional loctician, especially in the early stages. If you don't have one, ask people around you about their experience and check reviews before choosing someone.
• Never use a comb once your locs have started. Fingertips only.
• Moisture and hold matter at every stage. This is where the right products come in.

Products for Every Stage of Your Journey

Dr Locs was built to support you through all three of these stages, no matter your texture. If you're not sure where to start, I always recommend the Founder's Favorite Bundle — it gives you a variety of the full system in one place.

You can also build out the Original Dr Locs Bundle, which includes:

• Pre-cleanse and Yasin Shampoo — for a clean scalp and hair (this is also your detox system if you're dealing with flakes or buildup in the beginning stages)
• Jinan Moisture Mix or Island Breeze Moisture Mix — for moisture
• Imani Locking Spray — for hold
• Yaya Oil — to help seal everything in

If you're experiencing flakes, especially in the early stages, lean into the Dr Locs Detox System: pre-cleanse plus Yasin Shampoo.

You've Got This

Wherever you are in your journey — baby, teenage, or adult — you're exactly where you're supposed to be. Trust the process, stay consistent, and don't let comparison steal your progress.

If you have questions or want personalized guidance, I offer virtual consultations. You can book one at drlocs.setmore.com.

XO - Chimere