If your locs are frizzy right now, take a breath. You are not doing anything wrong, and you are not alone. Frizz is one of the most common things I hear about from clients, and honestly, one of the most misunderstood parts of the loc journey.

So let's talk about it. Why it happens, what you can do about it, and why some of it isn't meant to be "fixed" at all — it's just part of the process.

First, Understand the Stages of Your Locs

Your locs go through stages, just like people do.

Baby stage

(the first couple of months): Your hair is still thick, plump, and figuring itself out. It may come undone every time you wash it. That's normal.

Teenage stage:

Your locs are plump, but they're frizzy. I call it the teenage stage because it's a lot like an actual teenager — they might have the body of an adult, but they're not quite there yet. They still need guidance to grow into who they're going to be. Your locs are the same way. They need guidance to grow into healthy, mature locs down the line.

Adult stage: 

Your locs are mature and more settled. Frizz can still happen here, but usually for different reasons than in the baby and teenage stages.

Here's the truth: frizz in the baby and teenage stages is a natural part of the process. It's not preventable, and it's not a sign that something is wrong. What I can offer you, as someone who has been doing this for over 20 years, are the things that help your locs move through it as smoothly as possible.

The Causes and the Cures

1. You're in the baby or teenage stage, and you're not twisting all the way down.

A lot of people only twist at the root. But when your locs are still young, your hair doesn't know what to do yet — it needs the guidance of a full twist, from root to tip, every time. Use your silver clips to hold the twist in place while it dries. For hold during your retwist, this is exactly what the Imani Locking Spray was made for. Skip the full twist, and your locs are going to frizz. Point blank.

2. Your locs aren't getting real moisture before they're twisted.

Hold is only half the equation — moisture is the other half, and it's what your locs need to stay healthy while they're learning to hold their shape. Before you retwist, moisturize with the Jinan Moisture Mix or the Island Breeze Moisture Mix — these two are formulated to actually moisturize the hair, not just sit on top of it. On wash day, follow up with the Amla Extract Conditioner for another layer of real moisture. Dry, brittle locs frizz faster and break easier — moisturized locs hold their twist longer.

3. You're not protecting your hair in the shower or at night.

Humidity and moisture are two of the biggest reasons a fresh retwist doesn't last. If you're not covering your hair in the shower, or at night, your retwist is fighting an uphill battle. This is exactly why I created the Dr Locs Satin Lined Shower Cap — satin-lined on the inside, waterproof on the outside. Use it in the shower, and use it (or a satin bonnet, or a satin pillowcase) at night. Protecting your hair at night and in the shower is one of the biggest things you can do to make your retwist last.

4. Your hair isn't drying all the way through.

If you use a hooded dryer after your retwist, make sure you're sitting under it long enough — I recommend about 25 minutes. After that, take your clips down and put your hair up into two pigtails so the ends of your locs and the back of your head can finish drying completely. The back of the head is where most people miss drying their hair all the way through when they're doing their own retwist. That missed spot is often exactly where the frizz shows up.

5. Your locs were never twisted all the way down to begin with.

If your locs are mature but the whole lock still feels frizzy, this may be why. Some locticians only twist the root and don't bring the twist all the way down the length of the hair. If you've since started doing your own retwists, this is your sign to start twisting the full length of your locs and giving the entire lock some love, not just the root.

6. You're using a newer tool-based technique, and it may not be safe for every strand.

I want to be honest with you here — there's a newer technique going around (not interlocking) where a tool is used to essentially stab loose hair into the root. I'm not saying it's bad, but I don't have enough data on it yet to fully vouch for it. Pay close attention to your hair. If you start noticing short, broken hairs around your locs, that's a sign your hair may be breaking from the tool. Be aware, and watch closely.

7. Interlocking, when it's not done properly.

Interlocking is a great technique for infusing loose hair and frizz back into the lock — when it's done right. The goal is for the root to look like a clean cylinder, with no gaps or holes. This technique works especially well for people with fine hair whose retwists don't last long. But it has to be done by someone who knows how to interlock properly, and it shouldn't be done more than every two to three months. Too often, and you risk doing more harm than good.

8. Brushing locs before they're ready.

Brushing has become popular in the loc community, and it can be a great tool — but only for mature, adult-stage locs. If your locs are still in the baby or teenage stage (generally the first year), brushing them will brush them right out. Save the brush for when your locs are ready for it.

9. Your internal health.

Locs do not lie. If your hair is brittle, breaking, or excessively frizzy, take a look at what's happening internally too. Are you drinking enough water? Eating well? Your hair reflects the health of your body. Nourishing yourself from the inside is just as important as anything you do on the outside. That's part of what makes this journey so beautiful — your locs will always tell you the truth.

One Last Thing

This post is for anyone who's frustrated by their frizz and looking for ways to manage it. But I want to say this clearly: some people in this community love their frizz, and that is a beautiful thing too. Every loc journey is different, and every loc journey is beautiful. Please don't compare your journey to anyone else's, and please don't talk down on someone else's journey either. Let's respect one another and celebrate the fact that we're all growing, differently and beautifully, together.

XOXO

- Chimere, Dr Locs Founder